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Days 56 and 57 Palmerston North to Levin 60k TA

After a quick breakfast, the trail angel kindly drops me back to where I had left the trail yesterday. People are so kind. I had planned on either walking or hitching back but nope, I was given a lift AND freshly home baked muffins and a little bag of plums to take with me.

I reach the trail and head off. After I cross the Turitea Stream I follow a track for about 100 meters or so. At the top there are great views of the Tararuas. Before I started this hike, I felt a little trepidatious about this mountain range. Now,with some serious hiking k’s under my belt, I’m really looking forward to it.

Enough of that though. Today I need to make a bigger effort to focus on where I am right now.

My mood yesterday was seriously lacking good humour and I didn’t want to repeat that today.

I followed a staircase down the hill and on to a track heading into bush.

Maybe this is what I was missing yesterday. Bush. If that is the case, it doesn’t bode well for my re-entry to my day to day when I return home.

I pop out of the scrub through to some open farmland and follow the Kahuterewa Stream.

I’ve mentioned the literal site names I have come across on the trail. I head off along the Back Track, which is literally the back track to get to my destination. It is a former road closed in the 1960’s and is used now by 4wds.

From there it is a steady climb up, mainly through bush with some open farmland sprinkled throughout. I crossed some small streams but they were really shallow and I kept my shoes dry.

The gravel track made a very satisfying crunch underfoot. To amuse myself, I altered my footsteps to sound out beats to favourite songs. From a distance I probably looked liked I had been self medicating :/)

There’s a campsite in the Gordon Kean forest, approved for TA hikers to overnight. I’ve clocked probably just under 30k but I’m not up for a big push to Levin. It must have used up my energy reserves with all the fancy footwork on the gravel road.

It means I pull up fairly early in the day. There is a great shelter I use as my ‘kitchen’ and I fire up my stove to make a cuppa. I polish off the muffins. Quite a nice way to end my day and I enjoy the peace and quiet.

There is a fresh water stream here and I spend some time before heading to bes, filling water bottles and sterilising my drinking water.

Day 57 Late last night (ok it was only about 9.30 but hey, it’s all relative!) some other hikers crashed into camp. I don’t think they noticed my tent as they made a heck of a racket, probably thinking they were alone. I’m giving them the benefit of the doubt here.

I didn’t get a chance to talk with them as they were up and gone before daylight this morning.

I start today’s hike through some native forest (I don’t know that it is actually native forest, I’m just guessing because of the absence of pine trees). I cross the No 1 stream :-), before following the Tokomaru River. I cross No 2 Creek (!) and keep following the river. The trail is really well marked here with big orange blazes.

I continue along private land (with permission, how terrific are these generous landowners!) and then I’m back in to the forest.

I stop for a lunch break (hummus, hard cheese (which is a bit sweaty and warm but I’m sure it is still fine to eat!) and flat bread). I jump around a bit trying for wifi to research where I am right now. I recall a vague memory of reading something significant about this section, Burton’s Track, and then I remember.

You may know that heights aren’t my thing and swing bridges over heights cause my pulse to race and raise my blood pressure.

Well, Burton’s Track is named for Jim Burton, who died in 1941 when the swingbridge connected to his farm gave way.

Yes. True story.

I reflect on this for a while. Gosh things must have been tough and wild out here back then.

I follow along the historical track laid down by Burton almost 100 years ago. Thanks mate.

I make it to the Tokomaru Shelter and think about camping up but decide to push on. I have about 20 k to go to reach Levin.

I pass the No 3 Reservoir (chuckle, still with the names!) and continue for a couple of k before reaching the Blackwood Stream. I top up my bottles here before I head off. I am a bit paranoid about running out of water. No one, I’m sure, wants a repeat of the green teeth experience from when I ran out of water in the Pyrenees!

It’s a great track, with terrific views to Kapiti Island and Makahika Valley (at least I think that’s what I’m looking at, as per my map).

After that, it’s a steady descent and the tail follows a former Tramline with some benched track and several crossings of the Makahika Stream.

The track finally opens up to clearings and I’m in town. The shops are still open and I’m so glad as I need to do a really thorough resupply here before I head into the Tararuas.



Kahuterewa Stream













Maybe, just maybe, I really can do this...

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