I’m getting soft. I stayed at the Pakiri Holiday Park last night. It was comfy for sure but it’s really the lure of a shower that becomes the decision point rather than bed v sleeping bag as I’m really happy with all of my kit.
There is a lot of road walking and the track seems to funnel hikers into town more than I like. I know I have written on this before. I’m still wondering whether I should have started on the South Island so I could have dived into a wilderness walk and with more solitude in the mountains before hiking the North Island which would have had me adapting again to town life before I headed home.
I could actually stop, hike the South Island, and then head back North but hey, I’m here now and flipping my trip around seems logistically difficult. I’m not sure Katie would do well in the alpine ranges right now in any case.
So off I went today, feeling pretty good, along more road before heading into a pine plantation which brought me to some bush. At last!
The weather is great, a little overcast, light wind. Perfect hiking weather.
I hiked up a fairly steep hill that would have been awful in bad weather. As it was, it was still a bit slippery with loose shale. Katie and I commit to the climb and take a breather at the top.
I’m ok on ascents; breathe deep, set a pace and stick to it. I’m quite cautious on the descent and take a lot of care, go slowly and focus on foot placement. I still land on my bum from time to time but hey, no rolled ankles!
And then, yep, road, followed by a 4WD track, and then a bushtrack following the Waiwhui stream for a little while and across the valley.
And then it was up and up, fairly steep ridges to the Dome trig point. I was glad to get here in good time because I knew I had to get down the other side before I stopped for the day. There is no camping allowed on this section of track.
The views from up here would have been magical except a light drizzle had set in. I paused for a couple of minutes at the top anyway, I was wearing good rain gear and wasn’t uncomfortable. I’m trying harder to remember to stop, reflect and celebrate. Even if the achievement is just that Katie and I made it to the top of a big hill!
The way down was easier, with a stepped path (thanks you good folk at DoC) and a cleaning station at the bottom.
The famed Dome cafe was closed so no cold drink for me. I stepped off along SH1 (which was sketchy as, I have to say, with trucks roaring past) and camped overnight down the road at Sheep World.
Sheep World. It is exactly like it sounds.
It was pretty, pristine country I hiked across today.
I was intrigued by the signs I had seen. Fight the tip! Save the Dome! Save NZ Waterways! No Fken Dump!
Land had been purchased in the Dome valley to be used as a super dump and local iwi and other landowners are really concerned about leachate poisoning of the land, tributaries and the harbour.
The landfill proposal had created a lot of local resistance and a rahui has been placed on the land.
A rahui is a prohibition against a particular area or activity, typically in force temporarily in order to protect a resource.
The imposing of rāhui by Māori iwi has no official legal standing, and penalties are not formally imposed upon anyone breaking a rahui, but it is seen as culturally insensitive to do so, and in general all members of the public tend to respect the tradition.
Wow. Let me just say that again. In general all members of the public tend to respect the tradition.
I wish, desperately, that our mob had something something similar to protect our important and sacred places.
And that it would be respected by all.
Australia, are you listening? The people of Aotearoa have proved acknowledgement and respecting culture is possible.
Do better. Please.
I love my country. And all her people. But.. we really do need to do better.
Maybe it’s not fair to be making these comparisons. I know racism and disadvantage exists over here too. Heck, during my setup weekend here in October I was called a watered down half caste Abo. By the fella checking me in to my accommodation no less.
No one wins though if we all drop to the lowest common denominator.
We have to aim high and focus on what is possible.
(And please, don’t be concerned about what that fella said to me. I refuse to carry the burden of his ignorance)
Day 24 I was off to an early start, and retreated back up along the highway for about five km to where I had exited the track last night.
I had planned on having a short day today but I’m feeling pretty good. Stiff muscles still in the morning but after about twenty minutes, I’m good. Or as good as it is going to get anyway!
The hike today was on road and then into a terrific section of bush regeneration. It is great to see this commitment although it abuts awkwardly with the country I crossed yesterday with its landfill proposal.
The trail notes ask hikers to stick to the gravel track today to minimise spread of kauri dieback disease. There was a ridge line of young kauri and then it was back to bush and a pine forest.
I’ve fallen in love with the forests over here. I know many are commercial operations. They are still magnificent.
The mighty stands of trees. The sound the wind makes as it whistles through branches high above me. The energy from the trees that makes my skin tingle and my heart thud.
I’m so bloody lucky to be here.
23.5 k later and the track spits me out into Puhoi village, directly across from the pub.
Boots off, done for today.
Cleaning station, bottom of the Dome.
Wet up here.
Thanks DoC staff. Walkway down from the trig point and lookout at the Dome
At last. A track I can actually see. Just off SH1.
Ahhhh. Refreshment at Puhoi Pub.
Earned it.
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