Today was one of the best days of my life.
No kidding.
It was rugged, steep, hard going AND... I crossed into Mordor!
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is bleak, desolate, barren and heartbreakingly beautiful.
There are warning signs at the start of the trail, hammering home the message that this hike is serious business.
It can be dangerous at the best of times let alone in poor weather conditions.
The DoC advisory includes clothing appropriate for all conditions. Not a problem for me, I’m carrying my full pack, so I already have thermals, rain jacket, puffy insulated jacket, head warmer and gloves and enough food and water to last in case I get stuck waiting out the weather. (Yes, in case you are wondering, my backpack is very much like Mary Poppins’ carpetbag.)
Although there are pole route markers, these can be hard to see in poor weather.
And DoC advises to hike south to north but the TA trail notes provide info to allow me to walk north to south.
I’ve carrying a topo map and compass. I’m more trail fit than I have been in a long time.
I’m ready for this. :-)
The trail crosses spectacular volcanic terrain. Although I started the day in forest, I was soon hiking across a moonscape. It is otherworldly up here.
There’s a lot of... grey. The brilliance of the Lakes are a magnificent contrast. Add in the steam vents, the strong smell of sulphur and I’m feeling very Frodo.
The sharp ascent was made a bit easier with my sticks. It would have been a heck of lot easier without Katie!
The climb up to Red Crater (1886m) was like nothing I had ever experienced. Solid slog in a landscape that was just surreal.
I had decided to take a quick side trip (100 min round trip) to the summit because of course I did. I know I would have regretted it if I didn’t. It is beyond unlikely I will ever be here again.
Back from the summit, I started off along a narrow ridge to South Crater.
And it was here that I got the full force of this trail.
Just before the drop, I got blown off my feet.
Think about that for a second. A wind gust took my feet from under me and lifted me into the air.
I’m not a small woman and I’m carrying a full pack.
And I got blown off my feet.
Holy moly folks.
I’m ok if that never happens to me again.
I had been keeping watch on the weather and had noticed it starting to close in but up to now, the wind had been gusty but manageable.
I crawled... crawled, for the next 50 meters, as close to the ground as I could get, before I felt like I could chance standing upright again.
Yesterday, with the track closed, winds were forecast at 150k. I have no idea of the wind speed that knocked me. Maybe 15000000? :-)
It was exhilarating and terrifying, all at the same time.
Mainly terrifying :-)
I finally reached Mangatepopo Saddle and from there it was a steep descent, down the Devil’s Staircase to the Mangatepopo Valley.
I was happy to reach the hut. It was packed full with jubilant and spirited hikers, all with tales to tell.
Blue lake
Route marker
Emerald lake.
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