This morning I travelled up to the Cape with the Sand Safari bus. My first look at 90 mile beach that I was soon to be walking down just blew me away. Pristine, wide beaches, rolling surf, 4wds, people fishing. It looked bloody splendid!
And then it sunk in.
This is a really long beach.
This is a really, really long beach.
We passed a few hikers. None were smiling. All had looks of grim determination.
It was a huge reality check for me for what was coming.
I had a chance to speak with Paul, the bus driver, before we got up to the Lighthouse. He talked with me about the importance of this site to Maori people who believe this is where their spirit leaves the island after death. No nourishment of any kind should be taken up to the top, including water. Paul pointed out the trail turnoff that signals the start of the TA and with a big hug and shake of his head questioning my sanity, he sent me on my way.
I dropped my kit at the trailhead and wandered up to the lighthouse. Folks, it is a seriously beautiful spot. Come see it, even if you are not hiking the TA. The whole area is postcard beautiful.
I spent time before heading back down, speaking with Ancestors, asking for permission and safe passage across Aotearoa, with an oath I would respect the country and her people.
And then I was off down a path to the beach, feeling jaunty and happy. By this time it was about 12.30 in the afternoon.
There were some challenges on the way to the first camp at Twilight Beach. It is a steep climb down the cliff. It is better to start at low tide so it is easier and safer to get around some of the rocky outcrops. I started two hours before high tide. I didn’t want to waste a day before I started on the trail and figured the worst that could happen is I could assess the situation and wait it out if necessary. I watched the waves for a while and then scrambled over the rocks and jumped in. I got wet to the top of my thighs but my pack stayed dry. I was with another hiker which was a great help.
The trail took me along Te Wehari Beach, a long sweeping curve. I was feeling great. It was a beautiful day, strong sun but low wind.
I then crossed a small stream, got my feet wet, climbed to a small ridge and ate a late lunch of an energy bar and dried mango.
One small ridge.
Hahahaha. All hikers know there is no such thing. That small little bump was the start of the next section taking me up and up over the headland which isn’t passable by beach.
Some of it looked like a moonscape. Pitted and scarred rock, peach coloured soft sand dunes, Manuka scrubland and flax. You could see out to Cape Maria Van Diemen and Moruopao Island.
It’s then a drop down to Twilight Beach for around the last 3kms before heading up to the dunes to reach the Twilight Beach campsite.
I had been having trouble with my hip before I left and advised to rest it. I did the best I could but didn’t want to delay the start date.
I started to feel it though just as I got to the steps up to camp. I had to take them one at a time like a lurching toddler with a full nappy.
The camp site was great. A heap of flat spots for tents, two drop toilets and a gazebo to sit in while firing up the stove to cook up dinner (dehy spag bol) and make a much needed cup of tea.
There were a few hikers already in camp and over the course of the evening another six dropped in.
I set up my tent, rolled out my bedding and got squared away so I could eat and get to work sanitising 3 litres of water for the next day.
I positioned my tent door so I could see the sunset and feel the breeze while the back of my tent would face the morning sun and hopefully dry off quickly. I have a single walled tent that would undoubtedly have condensation by morning.
It was a really terrific start to the trip.
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